This application claims foreign priority benefit of French Application No. 99/00829, filed Jan. 26, 1999.
The present invention relates to anhydrous cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical compositions. These compositions can constitute care products for the skin, including the scalp, and/or make-up products for the skin, mucous membranes (lips or the inside of the eyelids), semi-mucous membranes (lips), keratin fibres (hair, eyelashes, nails) or make-up products for the body.
Make-up compositions containing a fatty phase are commonly used in cosmetics on account of their good adhesion to the epidermis, their comfortable feel, their protective capacity and their capacity to form a water-impermeable film. Anhydrous make-up products are generally in the form of a compact solid or in the form of a cream. Compositions with a creamy consistency may be sought since they can be applied in a satisfactory manner using the fingers, from packaging in the form of a jar or tube. They generally contain oils and waxes in order to obtain a consistency which is stable over time.
However, one of the drawbacks of this type of product is that, due to the fact that they comprise a large amount of fatty substances, they leave the skin feeling greasy and sticky and they are difficult to spread.
The aim of the present invention is to provide an anhydrous composition, in particular in the form of a cast product, which has improved cosmetic properties and good stability. In particular, what is sought is a composition which does not give a greasy or sticky feel when applied, but which nevertheless feels soft and comfortable on the skin.
It has now been discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that by using a specific fatty ester combined with pulverulent compounds in specific proportions, it is possible to obtain anhydrous compositions which spread easily on the skin, which do not feel greasy or sticky, and which have excellent cosmetic properties, in particular very great softness and good stability.
One subject of the present invention is thus an anhydrous composition, in particular a cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical composition, comprising i) at least one oily phase comprising isononyl isononanoate, and ii) at least one particulate phase comprising pulverulent compounds, characterized in that the isononyl isononanoate is present in a content of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the pulverulent compounds are present in a content of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the oily phase also comprises a silicone oil, the said silicone oil being present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic treatment process for the skin and/or the scalp, in particular a make-up process, which consists in applying a composition as defined above to the skin or mucous membranes and/or to the scalp.
It has been found that the composition used according to the invention is particularly soft: it can be applied and spread easily and homogeneously, without leaving a greasy or sticky feel. It also has a light texture and remains comfortable to wear throughout the day.
The composition according to the invention moreover has good sensory and cosmetic qualities, in particular a good matt effect and good covering power, uniformity and staying power.
The anhydrous composition according to the invention gives a uniform, homogeneous make-up result.
Furthermore, when applied to the skin, it has the advantage of not migrating in the folds of the skin and/or in the wrinkles of the face.
The compositions of the invention are anhydrous compositions. In general, an anhydrous composition is a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% of water. Even more preferably, the composition comprises no water at all.
The compositions according to the invention comprise an oily phase which comprises at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a liquid fatty ester which is isononyl isononanoate. In one embodiment of the present invention, the oily phase comprises greater than 10% by weight of a liquid fatty ester which is isononyl isononanoate, relative to the total weight of the composition. An oily phase generally refers to a phase comprising fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the isononyl isononanoate is present in the compositions according to the invention in a content which can range from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this content ranges from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As commercial products corresponding to isononyl isononanoate, mention may be made of Wickenol 151 sold by the company Caschem, xe2x80x9cDermol 99xe2x80x9d sold by the company Alzo or xe2x80x9cLanol 99xe2x80x9d sold by the company SEPPIC.
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone oil present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the content of silicone oil ranges from 5 to 55%, more preferably from 5 to 25%, by weight and even more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The silicone oil which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from:
cyclic volatile silicones containing from 3 to 8 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 6 atom, such as, for example, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; in particular the products sold under the names xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 244xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 245xe2x80x9d, xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 344xe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9cDC Fluid 345xe2x80x9d by the company Dow Corning,
linear volatile silicones containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms, for example hexamethyldisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane and octylheptamethyltrisiloxane;
the polydimethylsiloxanes of the general formula below: 
xe2x80x83in which:
X is -CH3 or OH, and
n is an integer ranging from 0 to 2000,
and preferably those in which the viscosity at 25xc2x0 C. is less than or equal to 0.06 m2/s, among which mention may be made of those sold under the name xe2x80x9cDow Corning Fluid 200xe2x80x9d by the company Dow Corning; mention may also be made in particular of the products sold under the name xe2x80x9cAKxe2x80x9d by the company Wacker, xe2x80x9cSFxe2x80x9d by the company General Electric and xe2x80x9cAbilxe2x80x9d by the company Goldschmidt, such as the product xe2x80x9cAbil 10xe2x80x9d,
alkylmethylpolysiloxanes and in particular poly(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oils or cetyldimethicone (CTFA name);
cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as xe2x80x9csilicone FZ 3109xe2x80x9d, sold by the company Union Carbide, which is a dimethylsiloxane/methyloctylsiloxane cyclocopolymer;
silicone gums which are optionally phenylated or hydroxylated polysiloxanes, with a high molecular mass of about 200,000 to 1,000,000 and with a viscosity of greater than 500,000 mPa.s, when they are dissolved in a solvent such as a polydimethylsiloxane or polyphenylsiloxane oil, or a cyclomethicone,
silicone resins comprising a combination of units R3SiO1/2, R2SiO2/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2, in which R is hydrogen, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, when they are dissolved in a solvent such as a polydimethylsiloxane or polyphenylsiloxane oil, or a cyclomethicone,
and/or mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of phenyltrimethicone.
The oily phase can also comprise oils other than isononyl isononanoate and silicone oils. Among the other oils which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of:
fatty esters other than isononyl isononanoate, such as:
branched C8-C16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate;
synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a higher fatty acid residue comprising from 6 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl lanolate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, arachidyl propionate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate;
hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyidodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate;
polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and pentaerythritol esters; and/or
mixtures thereof,
fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol,
hydrocarbon-based plant oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, sandalwood oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil; these plant oils have the particular feature of being liquid at a temperature of less than or equal to 25xc2x0 C.,
oils of mineral, plant or animal origin, such as liquid petroleum jelly, soybean oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, karite butter and its liquid fraction, or perhydrosqualene,
hydrocarbon-based oils, such as hydrogenated isoparaffins, for instance parleam and in particular volatile C8-C16 isoparaffinic oils such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane,
fluoro oils, among which mention may be made of perfluoropolyethers, such as the products sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cFomblinxe2x80x9d by the company Montefluos, as well as fluoro silicones, such as trifluoromethyl(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicones, for example the product sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cX22819xe2x80x9d by the company Shin Etsu, and/or
mixtures thereof.
The oily phase can comprise, for example, from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of fatty alcohols. In one embodiment of the present invention, the oily phase comprises at least one fatty ester other than isononyl isononanoate in a content which can range from 0.1 to 30%, more preferably from 5 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the oily phase consists solely of a mixture of isononyl isononanoate and at least one silicone oil. According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase consists solely of isononyl isononanoate, at least one fatty ester other than isononyl isononanoate and at least one silicone oil.
The isononyl isononanoate is present in a content of at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
The compositions according to the invention also comprise a particulate phase comprising at least one pulverulent compound chosen from pigments, nacres, and fillers known to be used in cosmetic compositions. The at least one pulverulent compound is present in a content of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fillers which may be present in the composition in a proportion of 5-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, can be mineral or synthetic, and lamellar or non-lamellar. In one embodiment of the invention, the fillers are present in a content of from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene), starch, natural Mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie) and microsponges such as Polytrap (Dow Corning). Spherical fillers such as polyethylene powders, Nylon powders, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba) and silica microspheres can also be used.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, microspheres are used, and in particular microspheres of silica, Teflon, Nylon, talc, mica, kaolin, or mixtures thereof.
The pigments can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic. Among the mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, ferric blue, nacres such as mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, as well as coloured titanium mica and/or mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium lakes and/or mixtures thereof. The pigments can also have a hydrophobic surface or can be treated so as to make their surface hydrophobic; this treatment can be carried out according to the methods known to those skilled in the art; in particular, the pigments can be coated with silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) and/or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes and/or amino acids.
Among the coated pigments which may be mentioned in particular are the pigments sold under the name xe2x80x9cSAxe2x80x9d by the company Miyoshi (PDMS-coated pigments).
The pigments thus coated can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the invention, the pigments are present in a content of at least 2% by weight, preferably 8 to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The nacres can be present in the composition in the proportion of 0-30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight. Among the nacres which can be envisaged, mention may be made of natural Mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, as well as coloured titanium mica.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise fatty substances other than the oils mentioned above, for instance waxes or pasty fatty substances. The term xe2x80x9cwaxxe2x80x9d means a fatty substance which is solid at room temperature.
The pasty fatty substances can be defined with the aid of at least one of the physicochemical properties below:
a viscosity of from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), measured at 40xc2x0 C. with a Contraves TV rotary viscometer fitted with an MS-r3 or MS-r4 rotor at a frequency of 60 Hz,
a melting point of 25-70xc2x0 C., preferably 25-55xc2x0 C.
As waxes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre waxes or sugar cane wax,
mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,
synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,
silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkylmethicones such as the C30-C45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cAMS C 30xe2x80x9d by Dow Corning,
hydrogenated oils that are solid as 25xc2x0 C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated cocoa oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25xc2x0 C. such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name xe2x80x9cKester Wax K82Hxe2x80x9d by the company Koster Keunen,
and/or mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment of the present invention, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candelilla waxes and/or mixtures thereof will be used. The waxes are present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
These fatty substances can be chosen in particular in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
Among the other liposoluble adjuvants which can be incorporated into the composition, mention may be made of lipophilic UV screening agents, vitamins and other lipophilic cosmetic active agents, antioxidants, fragrances and ceramides.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or hygienically acceptable medium. In this case, it can comprise any additive usually used in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical or hygiene field, such as antioxidants, dyes, fragrances, essential oils, preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, sphingolipids, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based liposoluble polymers, such as polybutene, polyalkylenes, polyacrylates and silicone polymers that are compatible with fatty substances.
These additives can be present in the composition in a proportion of 0-15% by weight. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition envisaged.
The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a cosmetic product and in particular in the form of a care product for the body and/or the face and/or the scalp or alternatively a make-up product, in particular a foundation, a concealer, a face powder, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a mascara or a lipstick, or a make-up product for the body. The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a fluid cream or a stick, or in the form of a soft paste.
The compositions according to the invention are prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing anhydrous compositions that are well known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are cast products manufactured by melting the waxes and then adding the other components of the composition, and finally by casting in a dish. In one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a cast foundation.